DEN AND LYNN’S MAGICAL MYSTERY TOUR 18-22 October 2010
After we had parted from our dear family at Matheran, Lynnley (my sister-in-law) and I flew out from Mumbai to Delhi where we slept the night and the following morning set out by train, bright and early for Agra.
Surreal slumbers on the train!
At frenetic Agra station we were relieved to be met by our fantastic tour guide who whipped us off to the beautiful testimony of Shah Jahan’s eternal declaration of his love for his wife (some would argue for love of his own ego!) Whatever – this sight has inspired multitudes down the years!
It’s impossible to describe the magical changes of the light on the marble as the sun rises – you will just have to take our word for this – it is truly something magical!
After a few hours the heat got to us and we headed for the incredible RED FORT across the River built by Shah Jahan’s ‘evil’ son Aurangazeb who was in fact, just as paranoic and ruthless as all the other Mogul rulers who preceded him. Nevertheless, incarcerating one’s poor old Dad, in the Red Fort till his dying breath does seem to have an unusually brilliant touch of cruelty
Shining gloriously through the tragic mists of time...Shah Jahan’s view of his beoved Taj from his prison quarters in the Red Fort
Leaving Agra we set off for the “ghost-city” of Fathephur Sikri, former imperial capital of the most enlightened and tolerant of all the Mughal emperors, Akbar. The Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audience where Akbar held discussions with representatives of diverse religions) boasts a Throne Pillar with carved motifs from Hinduism, Buddhism, Islam and Christianity.
The palace was built between 1569-1585, in honour of Salim Chishti, a famous Sufi saint, reputed to have performed the miracle of healing Akbar’ wife of her barrenness. Though he may have been unusually progressive in terms of religious tolerance and exploration Akbar nevertheless remained typically Mughal in his attitudes to women – his Harem containing an astonishing 5,000 women!
Ever since Akbar’s childlessness was ended by the remarkable prediction of Salim Chishti in 1568, the saint’s tomb has attracted crowds of supplicants, particularly childless women in search of a miracle. Visitors to the darbagh, lavishly endowed by both Akbar and his son, Jahangir, make a wish, tie a small cotton thread on the screen around the tomb and return home confident that the saint will make it come true!
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| Den, tying a thread - NO! not for myself! |
As the evening drew on we arrived to spend a few blissful hours at Keoladeo Ghana, a Unesco World Heritage Site, regarded as one of the world’s most important bird sanctuaries. The bird park spreads over 11 square miles of wetlands, and attracts a wide variety of migrant and water birds who fly in each winter from places as distant as Siberia.
Time seemed to stand still as we quietly watched flocks of painted storks settling for the night coloured by the occasional blue dart of an exquisite kingfisher in brilliant flight. A perfect way to settle our tired minds, fairly bursting with all the intensity of wonderment that we had seen and experienced during the day. Not to mention exhausted bodies.
A Note about sightseeing in India: No number of guide books can prepare you for the actual experience of India and her attendant extenuating circumstances:
HEAT! The Sun rises like a daily sledgehammer from which there is little respite during the day.
NOISE!!! BLARE!!! of traffic, hooters, people, tourists and touts the latter never allowing you a moment’s pause, indeed, if you do hesitate once, you have had it, as they will not let you go till you desperately leap into your rickshaw to escape!
Needless to say – it's all incredibly worth it!
The following day our taxi drove us deeper into Rajasthan, arriving at Jaipur and our very lovely heritage Hotel Bissau palace where Michael and I had stayed with the children over 15 years ago! Just in time for a refreshing swim!
The afternoon was spent in a bewildering whirl of craft shops our heads spinning from the sheer abundant artistic array!
Thursday morning found us en route to the Amber Palace, entering the Palace the way the Maharajahs did of old, on the back of a majestic, stately elephant
Perched on a rocky hill, 11km north of Jaipur, the Rajput stronghold of Amber (or Amer) was the capital of the leading Kachchwaha Rajput clan from 1037-1727. The colour of the buildings , graceful arches and the stunning natural setting, high above the surrounding countryside is unforgettably dramatic.
And then suddenly it was Thursday evening, and we boarded the Jaipur-Mumbai express arriving back in Pune Friday afternoon, with many thankful and heartfelt memories of companionship and adventure!
